In the historic heart of Kozhikode, where the Arabian Sea whispers tales of trade and tradition, lies Thekkeppuram—a neighborhood that transforms Ramadan into a culinary spectacle. Here, fasting is observed with devotion, but iftar is celebrated with enthusiasm that could put food festivals to shame. As the sun sets, the air fills with the aroma of samosas crisping in coconut oil, the zest of Kulukki Sarbath, and the layered indulgence of Chattipathiri. In Thekkeppuram, food isn’t just nourishment; it’s heritage, hospitality, and a language of love spoken fluently through every shared plate.
In the heart of Kozhikode, nestled between history and the Arabian Sea, lies Thekkeppuram, a neighborhood where time slows down, stories travel faster than light, and food is the most essential language spoken—especially during Ramadan.
This coastal community, known for its deep-rooted Arab-Malayali heritage, treats Ramadan not just as a spiritual period but also as a full-fledged food festival disguised as a fast. If you ever find yourself in Thekkeppuram at sunset, brace yourself—you’re about to experience an iftar spread so legendary that even calorie-counting apps crash in despair.
More Food, Less Table Space
At exactly maghrib, the streets of Thekkeppuram explode into action. The air is thick with the aroma of samosas sizzling in coconut oil, beef cutlets crisping to perfection, and Neychoru (ghee rice) soaking up every last drop of flavor from the succulent mutton stew. And let’s not forget the humble banana—sliced, fried, mashed, or dunked into sharbat—because in Thekkeppuram, if it’s edible, it can be improved with bananas.
However, the undisputed champion of the iftar table is the Chattipathiri – alternating layers of pancakes and sweet or savory filling – depending on your mood. Some say it was invented by an overambitious lasagna who wanted to be fancier and more native. Others believe it was a happy accident. Either way, no Thekkeppuram iftar is complete without it.
Thirst Quenchers
After a long day of fasting, Thekkeppuram folks don’t just drink water—they engineer the ultimate thirst-quenching experience. The Kulukki Sarbath, a sweet and tangy lemon drink shaken (not stirred) with basil seeds, is basically the unofficial mascot of Ramadan hydration here. Then there’s the Nannari Sarbath, a sweet, earthy drink that has survived generations because it’s just that good.
And if you spot someone chugging an odd milky beverage on the roadside, don’t panic—it’s Milk Egg Sarbath. It might seem like an unlikely trio, but much like Thekkeppuram, it’s a fusion that works.
Suhoor Strategies
While most places slow down post-iftar, Thekkeppuram thrives on midnight food runs. After Taraweeh prayers, small eateries fire up their grills, and the real feast begins. You’ll find people debating politics over sizzling chicken kebabs, rewatching football highlights while tearing into steaming hot parottas, and haggling for the last piece of pathiri at 2 AM.
When it’s time for suhoor, Thekkeppuram doesn’t believe in “light meals.” Instead, they go all out with chicken biryani, beef curry, and a side of thari kanji (a drink made with semolina) —because nothing says “I’m ready for a day of fasting” like eating your body weight in calorie-infused goodness.
The Spirit of Thekkeppuram: More Than Just Food
Beyond the delicious chaos, Ramadan in Thekkeppuram is about community. It’s about neighbors sending over an extra plate of snacks “because we say I love you with food,” children excitedly delivering food to the masjid, and entire streets coming together for grand communal iftars. Here, food is not just eaten—it’s shared, celebrated, and remembered.
So, if you ever find yourself in Thekkeppuram during Ramadan, come hungry, come curious, and come ready to eat like you’ve never eaten before. Because in this little corner of Kozhikode, every fast ends with a feast—and a food coma you’ll never forget.
A Trumpet Blower contributes this piece: Zenifer Khaleel is a freelance features writer based in Dubai; her work covers a diverse range of topics, including human interest stories, profiles, and cultural pieces. Zenifer’s storytelling profoundly engages with the UAE’s diverse society, bringing to light inspiring narratives that resonate with a broad audience.
